FAQs

Listed below are some questions and answers, hints, tips and advice on everything and anything we’ve been asked over the years concerning home building and remodelling.

Can’t see what you were looking for? Send us an email.

Electrical

Q: What do I do in case of an ELECTRICAL FIRE?

A: If you encounter an ELECTRICAL FIRE, you must cut off the source of the fire. You do this by shutting off the CIRCUIT BREAKERS in the CIRCUIT BOX. The Building Code requires all buildings to have two circuit boxes, an external and an internal circuit box. Go to the external circuit box FIRST and shut off the electricity to the building. This may be difficult if you live in a condominium, as the master circuit box may not be accessible as it is usually kept in a locked room. If you cannot excess the external box, use the internal circuit box to shut off the electricity. Once you have shut off the electricity you can use a fire extinguisher to extinguish the materials that are on fire. Since the electricity has been shut off you can use water to extinguish the fire. We recommend you have a fire extinguisher on hand, the size of your house or condominium will determine the size of the fire extinguisher.
CAUTION: KNOW WHERE YOUR ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT BOXES ARE.

Q: I want to put in a ceiling fan with energy efficient lighting. Nothing that will rock left to right when it’s spinning on high. Could this be done as a weekend project?

A: I am sorry to say that in the State of Hawaii it is illegal for anyone but a Licensed Electrical
Contractor to install an electrical fixture. Because you will be hooking the fixture to an existing live
electrical line we believe it is too dangerous and the consequences to dire for anyone without experience
to install an electrical fixture even if you had the instructions

Q: How do I determine if I need to call an electrician?

A: If the CIRUIT BREAKERS in the CIRCUIT BOX are tripping, call an ELECTRICIAN immediately. The tripping of the CIRCUIT BREAKERS indicates that the fuses are over-loaded. This occurs when the fuses are deficient or the wires are overloaded.

To be safe, it is the recommendation of our ELECTRICIAN you should your wiring in your house checked by a licensed electrician every 5 to 10 years.

Flooring

Q: I just installed wood laminate flooring. Upon completion the floors squeak. Is there anything I can do to stop the squeaking?

A: If the flooring has already been installed and you don’t want to replace the present laminate flooring, the only remedy is to remove the flooring and then gluing the tongue & grooves. Be aware that the warranties from the manufacturer will no longer apply. Installing laminate flooring requires four steps: 1) Purchasing the right Laminate Flooring, 2) prepping the existing floor, 3) laying the underlayment, 4) installing the laminate flooring. When you shop for laminate flooring, we recommend you purchase products with a depth of 10mm to 12mm rather than products with a depth of 7mm or 8mm. There have been reports that these products have a tendency to squeak because the tongue & grooves are so thin they cannot be joined properly. Choosing a flooring contractor is very important. A good flooring contractor is measured by how flat he can get the existing flooring. He uses a self- leveling patch to achieve this. This is very IMPORTANT because if the existing flooring cannot be leveled the laminate flooring will probably squeak. Though the underlayment is part of the installing process, it provides padding for the laminate flooring, it will not cause the floor to squeak.

Q: I am thinking of re-carpeting my home. To do you have any advice?

A: When making a carpet selection you should be purchasing the carpet based on the fiber. Fiber is what makes the carpet durable. The best fiber for carpet is 6.6. Nylon. A 6.6. Nylon is usually fully stain protected, and when purchasing carpet from a company like American Carpet One, a stain master flooring center, the customer will have a life time warranty.

Q: I am thinking of installing flooring tile in my home. To do you have any advice?

A: The best tile to purchase is 100% Porcelain Tile. My second choice would be a Porcelain Glaze. Ceramic Tile would be my last resort.

100% Porcelain Tile is the most durable and is the strongest. Your flooring contractor will not have as much problems during installation. Ceramic Tile though cheaper is more likely to break or crack because it is not as strong.

Q: We recently had a major flood in my condominium, and our carpet got soaked. The building maintenance brought in a dehumidifier and industrial fans to dry it out. The carpet appears dry, but how can I be sure mold will not appear under the carpet or in the padding.

A: When a carpet is exposed to water, a licensed carpet extractor is used to determine whether your carpet can be saved. He will be able to save the carpet if he can remove all of the moisture from the pad & carpet. If all the moisture is not removed from the padding, the padding may begin to disintegrate. If the fibers of the carpet are sewn into the backing the moisture may cause the backing to become brittle and break. If the fibers are glued to the backing the moisture may cause the carpet to de-laminate. Finally moisture may cause mold to grow. This process will begin to show itself after 5 or 6 months. In all those situations you will need to replace the carpet.

The carpet extractor can usually save the carpet in cases of limited exposure to water. In this situation a carpet extractor will use fans to dry the pad and carpet. This procedure will usually take between 3 to 5 days.

CAUTION: Even after the carpet extractor treats the carpet, and the carpet appears dry. No one can be certain the carpet was completely dry until the carpet passes the mold test. It may take 4 to 5 months for the mold to show up.

Q: My bathroom sink backsplash is “pulling away” from the wall. Do I need to do anything other than to re-caulk it? What kind of
caulking should I use?

A: We recommend you use Tin Set Adhesive to reset the backsplash. Before you reset the backsplash we recommend that you determine what caused the backsplash to pull away from the wall. The most likely cause would be moisture. Look at the wall behind the backsplash for water marks to determine where the moisture is coming from. It you do not stop the moisture the problem will occur again.

Q: Is the floor preparation for laying down laminate flooring and tile different?

A: Preparing the floor before laying down laminate flooring or ceramic tile is the same, getting the floor as flat as possible. The first step is to get the floor as clean as you possible can as dirt or the old adhesive can create lumps that will defeat the purpose. When the floor is as clean as you can make it, use Border Mix Cement if you are
laying ceramic tile, or a Patch Self Leveling Compound to make the existing floor as flat as possible.

CAUTION: Preparing the floor is the most important element in lay laminate flooring or ceramic tile flooring. If this is done incorrectly you will have a hard time laying your new ceramic tile or wood laminate flooring.

Q: Is the floor preparation for laying down laminate flooring and tile different?

A: Normally the contractor installing ceramic tile in showers, will install the ceramic tile on the walls before installing the fixtures and drains. Using a diamond bit drill, he will then drill holes in the ceramic tile to secure the fixtures and drains. In the case of toilets, the installer will remove the toilet, lay the ceramic tile and then he would
replace the toilet. He will then use caulking to seal the fixtures.

It is extremely difficult to cut the ceramic tile to fit around the fixtures, drains, and toilets if you do not have
experience. In addition it is very likely that a number of the ceramic tiles could be damaged, chipped or broken.

Q: Is the floor preparation for laying down laminate flooring and tile different?

A: Apply Thinset to the surface using a trowel with teeth. The size of teeth is determined by the size of the tiles you wish to lay down. Thinset is a mortar adhesive that flooring contractors use to secure the tile to the floor. Once the Thinset is applied the wood (stair) nose is laid down first. There are two types of wood (stair) nose, 1)
overlapping stair nose, and 2) flush stair nose. We recommend using the overlapping stair nose, there are grooves that you attach the first row of ceramic tile. The rest of the tile is set on the Thinset. We recommend that you purchase the wood nosing from the company you are purchasing the tile. This is to insure continuity.

Plumbing

Q: My water bill increased to $200/mo. Do you think I have a water leak?

A: it is very likely that there is a leak in one of the water pipes on your property. There are two set of water pipes on you property. The first set of pipes are situated on the outside of the building. These pipes connect the building with the pipes in the street. To determine if the leak is occurring in this set of pipes, you will need a water detector to find the location on the leak because the pipes are underground. The second set of pipes are located in the building. There are pipes that are visible, they include the pipes beneath the sinks and the toilets. There are also pipes that are embedded in the walls of the building that are hidden. If one of these pipes is leaking, water stains on the walls of the building will give us a clue as to the location of the leak. The toilet itself may have a leak, the rubber stoppers may be defective, and may need to be replaced. I recommend that you consult a licensed plumber to determine where the leak is occurring. In terms of cost, the least expensive would be the leaks in the pipes that are visible and repairing the toilet. If the leak is in the walls of the building, you will incur the additional cost of repairing the wall. The most expensive would be if the leak is in the yard. You will need to excavate the area to get to the pipe. Good luck

Q: I cannot disconnect my water hose from the water line outside my house. What should I do?

A: There are three (3) components to your problem you must consider. The water hose connector, the hose bib, and the water line. I recommend you first try spraying the area around the water hose connector and the hose bib with WD40.

If you cannot remove the water hose connector, the hose bib is rusted or corroded. If this is the situation
you must replace the hose bib. To replace the hose bib you will need a water pipe wrench. You must be very careful in removing the hose bib so you do not damage the water line.

I you are not confident that you can replace the hose bib without damaging the water line we recommend that you consult a licensed plumber because it will be costly to replace the water line.

Q: I am renovating my home do you have any tips in choosing my plumbing fixture?

A: When buying plumbing fixtures looks are not as important as the materials are used inside the fixture itself. Plumbing fixtures whose insides are made of glass will last longer than those that are made of plastic.

Get fixtures where the handles are can be removed from the fixture. As water passes through the handle, they can clog up. If the handles can be removed they can be cleaned and replaced. If they can’t you may have to replace the fixture itself.

Q: I am considering changing the plumbing fixture in my Kitchen. Do you have any advice for me?

A: Because of the small space you will be working in, patience will be your biggest asset. First, shut of the angle valve in you cabinet. This will stop the water from entering the water line. Second, unhook the water line from the angle valve. Have a bucket handy to drain the water from the water line.
Third, untie the lock nut under the faucet in the cabinet. Remove the faucet. Make sure the counter-top is clean. Replace the faucet with a similar fixture. This is IMPORTANT! If you purchase a different fixture, you will have to cut holes in the counter-top to accommodate a different style of fixture. There are 3 types of fixtures.

1) Single hole fixture – diameter 1-1/4”
2) Triple hole fixture – (4”) width
3) Triple hole fixture – (8”) width

When replacing the water line, we recommend changing the water lines made of cast iron or copper to flexible water lines. The female end has a gasket in the nut that will keep the water line from leaking. As an additional protection, coat the threads with GRAY PIPE DOPE. If you keep your cast iron or copper you need to wrap the threads with Teflon tape. Caution: using Teflon tape with a flexible water line with a gasket will cause the line to leak.

TOOLS
1) Water Pipe Wrench
2) Long Stick Basin Wrench – Narrow Spaces.
3) Crescent Wrench
4) Screw Driver

Q: I am planning to install a 3 piece shower stall, what should I be considering?

A: If you are purchasing stalls that come in pieces, like a 3 piece shower stall, make sure the thickness of the walls are identical. If the thickness is not identical you will need to use shims to make the joint even. If you are using a contractor to install the shower stall make sure he checks the thickness of
the walls before installation, so he will know what to expect.

Q: There is an odor coming from my kitchen sink. Do I have a problem?

A: Your P-Trap is probably clogged. The P-Trap is the U-Shaped water line below the sink. First try something like Liquid Plumber to unclog the line. If this does not remove the smell, you will need to snake the line. If you are unable to snake the line, call a 24 hr. plumber to do the job.

Bathroom

Q: My bathtub caulking is moldy. I’ve removed the caulking and re-caulked it but the mold seems to have returned with a vengeance. Is there a different type of caulking that you can suggest? Or, what can I do to prevent or minimize the molding other than to wipe it down after each use. (I have boys. They are not going to do that…)

A: Though it is more expensive, professionals will use TEC Caulking to minimize mold growth. Sorry but it will still require some cleaning on your part.

Q: I am thinking of re-carpeting my home. To do you have any advice?

Carpentry

Q: How would I go about changing a screen with wooden trim?

A: Using a flat bar, remove the molding around the screen. Remove the old screen and replace it with the new screen. Consult your hardware store. By giving them the size of the opening, they will be able to tell you how much screen you will need to purchase. You will need a staple gun to replace the new screen. Once the new screen is stapled on the wooden frame, now you can put back the old wooden trim to hold down the new screen. If you need more nails to secure the trim we recommend 4 penny finish
nails. Once the trim is nailed down, use a utility knife to cut off the excess screen.

Q: How would I go about replacing vinyl window screens?

A: Using a screw driver, remove the rubber that holds the screen in place. When you remove the rubber from the vinyl frame, take out the old screen. Consult your hardware store, by giving them the size of the opening, they can tell you how much screen and rubber you will need to purchase. Once you install the new screen, you will need a roller to put back the new rubber. When the screen is installed and the new rubber is rolled into place, you will need a utility knife to cut off the excess screen.

Q: My ceiling fan is wobbling. Is there anything I can do?

A: First, check to see if the screws are secured to the housing. A loose screw may cause the fan to wobble. If the screws are secure, our second option would be to purchase a Counter Balance Kit. Weights are attached to the edges of the blades to balance the fan. This may be a frustrating procedure as the weights are moved from edge to edge until the fan no longer wobbles. This is by trial and error by.

If all of these steps fail, you will need to check the backing Make sure the backing is wide and thick enough to support the entire housing. We recommend a 2”x4” or 4”x4”. It is important that the entire area of the housing is attached to the backing.

If you find that he fan is still wobbling, you will need to shim the housing to make the housing more stable.

Drywall

Q: My son put a hole in our wall, how do we go about fixing it.

A: Assuming the material of the wall is drywall, you will need the following:
(1) Sheet Drywall
Drywall Hand Saw
Ruler
(1) 1” Screw
Glue (e.g. Super Glue)
Drywall Tape
Drywall Compound
Putty KnifeCut
Fine Sand Paper (100 grade sand paper)
Paint

Use a ruler to draw a rectangle large enough to cover the damaged area. Cut the rectangle with a Drywall Hand Saw and a straight edge to make sure the edges are as straight as possible. Trace the rectangle removed from the damaged wall to the new drywall sheet. Cut the new rectangle so its dimensions are 1/16” smaller than the rectangle of the damaged area using the ruler and the Drywall Hand Saw to make the edges as straight as possible. The space between the new piece and the hole in the wall should be approximately 1/16” (so that it can fit nicely into the hole in the wall, without that much of a gap all around. Insert a 1” screw so you can control the new piece as you put the piece into place and wait to dry. Glue the edge of the new piece with glue (e.g. super glue). (Note that you do not have to hold the piece into place for the entire time. You can
let it go as soon as it “stays in place” when you let it go.) Once the glue dries, (which takes between ½ to 1hr), use drywall tape to cover the cut lines. Cover the
exposed area with Drywall Mud with a putty knife. Once the mud dries, sand the area with a fine sand paper to make the area smooth. Repeat this process until you are satisfied the area is flat. Finish the process by painting over the damaged area.

CAUTION: Unless you texture the whole room, your mom and dad will still notice the repaired areas…

Q: How would I go about changing a screen with wooden trim?

A: Using a flat bar, remove the molding around the screen. Remove the old screen and replace it with the new screen. Consult your hardware store. By giving them the size of the opening, they will be able to tell you how much screen you will need to purchase. You will need a staple gun to replace the new screen. Once the new screen is stapled on the wooden frame, now you can put back the old wooden trim to hold down the new screen. If you need more nails to secure the trim we recommend 4 penny finish nails. Once the trim is nailed down, use a utility knife to cut off the excess screen.

Q: The seams are cracking in my canec ceiling. How can I repair this?

A: You can use either a Silicon Caulking or a Polyurethane Caulking. If the crack is small Silicon Caulking will be sufficient. The larger cracks need to be filled with Polyurethane Caulking because of it higher bonding power. Smooth the surfaces by sanding with a medium surface sand paper. I recommend the entire ceiling be painted to give the ceiling a consistent look.

General

Q: When purchasing products from dealers, what are important considerations?

A: Be sure you understand the after service policy of the store. How long will it take to replace a product that is defective? It might be prudent to purchase products that the store keeps in stock so they are readily available.

Q: I am considering a renovation project. Is there a limit on the size of the renovation?

A: The State of Hawaii limits the size of all the structures on the property, to 50% of the total area of the property.

CAUTION: You should be aware of three easements. 1) Electrical Easements, 2) Sewer Easements, 3) Road Widening Easements. Though it is not illegal to build in these areas, you may be required to tear down the structure if the city or the utilities need to work in this area.

Q: What does the term industry standard mean? It is used by contractors often when it appears they do not want to fix what appears to be a defect.

A: During construction, it is very important to understand the term INDUSTRY STANDARD as it is a cause of confusion and conflict. INDUSTRY STANDARD is a term used to describe an acceptable margin of error. Because the construction process is imperfect, no one can expect a construction company to complete the project perfectly. Whether a construction company has met industry standards is determined by the Architect, Structural Engineers, Special Inspectors, Soils Engineers, Special Inspectors, or the Building Department. In the case of Commercial Projects, this includes Electrical, Mechanical, & Civil Engineers.

Whether a construction company has met INDUSTRY STRANDARD should never be determined by the homeowner or the construction company. This is because both are biased. The owner wants his project done perfectly at the cheapest price. The construction company wants to complete the project as quickly as possible. His goal is to pass the inspections by the professionals above. If you are unsure whether a job has been done correctly, contact the Architect of record. He is the owners agent.

CAUTION: To make sure your project meets INDUSTRY STANDARDS make sure the appropriate professionals make the necessary inspections. Beware of anyone saying these inspections are unnecessary.

Q: When is it necessary to engage a Structural Engineer

A: Most architects are able to size headers, columns and walls for typical houses that are not complicated. Structural Engineers have the experience and knowledge to design the framing and connections for the entire house. If your house design has any of the following items you should hire a Structural Engineer
1) Long Spans
2) Cantilevered Floors
3) Structural Steel or Concrete Beams or Columns
4) Special Foundations
5) Retaining Walls
6) Located in Flood Zones

Q: Whenever it rains my property becomes saturated with water, I’m afraid that the water will seep into my house. Who should I consult to make sure this does not happen?

A: Civil Engineers are licensed to studies on infrastructure, grading and drainage to prevent this from happening. Grading and Drainage are important to ensure the property is designed correctly so storm-water runoff will not cause building flooding or the compromising of the foundation. Existing drainage patterns to the neighboring properties are important so it does not cause any adverse impacts on their properties. Many people seek the advice of Site Work Contractors or General Contractors for advice because of cost.
These are opinions by unlicensed professionals, so they cannot be held responsible for these opinions.

Q: I am installing a light fixture. I have been told you need a building permit. Is that right?

A: The building code requires all PLUMBING & ELECTRICAL work to be done by licensed plumbers and electricians. The building code also requires a Building Permit for all PLUMBING & ELECTRICAL work. The Department of Building Safety, does not exempt the removal and replacement of existing fixtures from the requirement of a building permit.

To acquire a BUILDING PERMIT: Go to the Department of Building Safety website www://honoluludpp.org after the completion of the project. Select the Internet Building Permit System site. Fill out the Internet Building Permit. This may be done by the homeowner or the licensed contractor describing the work that was done and the cost. The minimum charge is $3 for plan review and $18 for the Building Permit. If the plan is approved, the Building Department will send out the appropriate
building inspector to make sure the job was done correctly.

Q: When are BUILDING PERMITS required?

A: BUILDING PERMITS are required to erect, construct, alter, remove, or demolish any building or structure (including fences, retaining walls, and swimming pools). For any electrical work over $500, or plumbing work over $1000. All work shall be performed by licensed electrical/plumbing contractors. To construct or alter any sidewalk, curb, or driveway in public rights-of-ways.

Q: When are BUILDING PERMITS not required?

A: BUILDING PERMITS are not required 1) Curbs, planter boxes, retaining walls and fences which are not more than 30” high. 2) Individual residential television and radio antennas, excluding dish-type antennas. 3) Painting, Cabinet Work, and Floor Covering. 4) Tool and storage sheds not exceeding 120 square feet as accessories to the dwellings. 5) Repairs using similar or same materials for the purpose of maintenance and which are not more than $1,000 in valuation in any 12 month period, and do not
affect any electrical or plumbing installations.

Q: Why does a simple building permit take so long.

A: Let me take this opportunity to correct a myth about BUILDING PERMITS. General Contractors have never had any influence over the issuance of building permits. The fact is, General Contractors or any Contractors to be used in the building process, are normally selected as the FINAL piece of the BUIDIG PERMIT process.

The Building Department will not accept applications for a Building Permit unless it is submitted by a licensed Architect or Structural Engineer. The building department will only address questions brought to them by the Architect or Structural Engineer of record or the Owner. Any questions a General Contractor or owner may have about the drawings should be directed to the Architect or Structural Engineer of record. All discrepancies must be corrected by the Architect of Structural Engineer of record.

There is one EXCEPTION: An Owner-Builder may apply for a Building Permit without a licensed Architect or Structural Engineer if the cost of the project is less than $40,000.

The issue of the length of time it takes for a Building Permit to be issued is a problem that affects all home owners because of INFLATION. Heeia Consruction Company has discussed the problem with Architects, Engineers, Unions Officials, former City Council members. We even discussed the problem with employees of the building department. The TRUTH is they all recognize the problem, but no one has a solution.

Q:QWQ

Masonry

Q: What is causing cracks in my cement slab?

A: All cement slabs crack. The width of the crack is what makes it acceptable. There are two reasons cement slabs crack: 1) Shrinkage, and 2) Ground Movement.

Shrinkage: Cement slabs are like sponges, as the water used to make the cement pliable evaporates the cement slab shrinks. 1) Masons use re-bars that bond with the cement to combat this shrinkage. 2) Masons will do everything possible to lengthen the drying process during the curing period to limit shrinkage. The curing period may take anywhere from 7 to 21 days. During this time a mason will try to keep the slab as moist as possible.

Ground movement: Ground movement is based on the type and condition of the soil. You must first remove all expansive soil (e.g. adobe soil), and the area should be replaced by compactible soil, (e.g. base course, select borrow) and compacted at 90 to 95%. The thicker the cement slab, the less soil movements
will affect your cement slab.

CAUTION: We recommend that you enlist the services of a Soils Engineer and Structural Engineer to
make sure you cement slab will be durable.

Q: There are cracks in my cement slab should I be concerned?

A: All cement slabs crack. The width of the crack is what makes it acceptable. In general if a crack is equal to or less than 1/16” I would not be concerned. If the width of the crack is greater than 1/16” and the cement slab is part of the building, I would recommend consulting a structural engineer.

Q: Can a new concrete slab be poured over an existing slab?

A: If the existing slab appears in good condition, and the width of the cracks is acceptable, a new slab can be poured on top of the existing slab if the thickness of the new slab is thick enough to support re-bars. The minimum thickness is 4”. If the slab is part of an existing building, I would recommend that a Structural Engineer be consulted.

Painting

Q: I am considering painting my bedroom, do you have any tips?

A: THE PREP PHASE: Whether you do it yourself or you hire licensed painter this phase is critical. Clean the wall with a cloth using a mild detergent (e.g. simple green). Whatever detergent you use does make sure it doesn’t leave a residue on the surface. Scrape, sand, or patch any failing surfaces as needed (e.g.
paint chips, flaking, rust).

Remove switch plates and tape the electrical fixtures. We do not recommend removing the electrical fixtures due to the live electrical wires.

Apply a coat of primer to get adhesion. Apply the finish (1 or 2 coats) depending on the color and quality of the paint. Ask the paint salesperson to recommend a quality of paint. TIP: though the paint will be more expensive, you will use less paint. If you hire a licensed painter, he will use less labor, saving you
money.

You will need the following tools: 1) Paint Brush, 2) Roller, 3) Roller Extension Pole, 4) Paint Pans, and
5) Drop Cloth.

Q: What is the best way to water proof my deck?

A: There are a variety of decking options available. For example, you can use tile or deck boards but we recommend an Elastomeric Treatment.
You will need the following tools: 1) Putty knife, 2) Caulking gun, 3) Rollers & Brushes. You will need the following materials: 1) Poly Urethane Sealant, 2) Water Proof Fiber Glass Mesh, 3) Lava Deck (3) Coat System. Depending on the flatness of the surface a fourth coat may be needed.

1) Using a poly urethane sealant fill in cracks and indentions in the flooring and around the borders on the perimeters, trying to make the surface as smooth as possible.
2) Coat the deck with a clear primer (Uni-Seal).
3) Coat deck with first coat of lava deck (Hint: install water proof fiber glass mesh in the seams as
you go along so you have a place to maneuver). Make sure to remove bubbles so you have a
smooth finish.
4) You should coat the deck two more times with lava deck. Each coat will take 1 or 2 hours to dry.

CAUTION: It is extremely important that you be careful when caulking the seams and in the installation of the fiber glass mesh. If this is not done correctly, this is where the leaks are most likely to occur. Water leaks may cause damage on the floor below.

Q: I heard that canec material may be toxic. Is that true?

A: Prior to 1978, asbestos was used in various materials used in construction, as a fire retardant, insulation, and to reduce noise. While canec is not toxic, the asbestos dust caused by it removal is said to cause cancer if inhaled. If your canec was purchased prior to 1978, the removal of the canec should be done by a Licensed Abatement Company for your protection In addition they have the proper licenses to dispose of the canec.

Other

Q: can suggest? Or, what can I do to prevent or minimize the molding other than to wipe it down after each use. (I have boys. They are not going to do that…)

A: Though it is more expensive, professionals will use TEC Caulking to minimize mold growth. Sorry but it will still require some cleaning on your part.

Q: How would I go about changing a screen with wooden trim?

A: Using a flat bar, remove the molding around the screen. Remove the old screen and replace it with the new screen. Consult your hardware store. By giving them the size of the opening, they will be able to tell you how much screen you will need to purchase. You will need a staple gun to replace the new screen. Once the new screen is stapled on the wooden frame, now you can put back the old wooden trim to hold down the new screen. If you need more nails to secure the trim we recommend 4 penny finish nails. Once the trim is nailed down, use a utility knife to cut off the excess screen.

Q: How would I go about replacing vinyl window screens?